Oh Milan Fashion Week, you never let us down. The much anticipated Fall 2019 men’s shows were certainly no exception. This season, many of the designers had similar running threads, but each offered their own distinctive take on the most popular trends in menswear. Whether it was sporty streetwear, winter sports, or a little something in-between, we loved it all. Punk and neon were popular, as seen at Marcelo Burlon County of Milan, Les Hommes, and Neil Barrett. While Prada and MSGM went with Frankenstein and racing respectively. Dolce & Gabbana and Nº21 both offered up their own take on how real men should dress, although they offered vastly different concepts. Like Les Hommes, Emporio Armani focused on winter sports, as did Dsquared2 who had some of the best faux fur and shearling winter coats. Fendi paid tribute to Karl Lagerfeld’s personal style, and Ermenegildo Zegna is dedicated to sustainability. Here are the best things we saw at Milan Fashion Week Men’s.
Versace – Gender Blurring Menswear
Pushing every boundary, a bold, daring attitude at Versace’s Fall 2019 men’s collection featured a ton of in-your-face graphic prints, including a leopard print dye job on a model’s head that matched the faux fur he was wearing. To drive home the message, the aforementioned model also sported a lace negligee over a plain white tee, seen underneath a Ford logo-printed shirt. Printed harness T-shirts, leather pants, and open-backed silk jackets were held in place by harnesses recalling the 90s bondage iconography by Gianni Versace. “If I had to find a word that defines today’s man, it would be daring,” Donatella said. Very daring indeed!
Dolce & Gabbana – Say Goodbye to Streetwear
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana officially waved goodbye to streetwear. After dabbling in the ubiquitous trendy style for a few seasons, the designers made a return to tried and true basics – that is, if basics are flashy and dripping with sequins, evening-wear style. Flamboyant flourishes ruled with everything covered in sparkles and shine, from multi-style suit jackets to the insanely opulent dress shoes. Luxurious fabrics like glittering black and gold brocade were presented right alongside colorful patterned sequined coats, and contrasted by the richest velvets which made for quite the fashion statement.
Emporio Armani – Extreme Urban Dwellers
When the Emporio Armani man is not dressed to the nines in the city, he can be seen at the chicest Italian ski resorts. “Designed for a hybrid habitat,” the collection is “sporty, but urban at its core,” which is why the designer included several pieces from Armani’s sportswear offshoot EA7, a well-known brand in winter sports. Sporty elements from EA7, like the all-white section of the collection with models carrying snowboards, were upgraded for the modern city dweller. Luxe corduroy trousers were cinched at the ankle and paired with shaggy, tailored, faux fur coats, over a crisp white shirt and tie.
Prada – Franken-Fashion
Miuccia Prada does the monster mash with Mary Shelley Frankenstein-inspired pieces. “I’ve been thinking a lot lately about people’s humanity and the sensitivity, of the forgotten, the struggling and of the “weakness and delicacy” of humans at a time of danger and fear,” explained Prada. She incorporated Frankenstein-esque tailoring by slashing and combining different fabrics to make one whole piece, much like the monster himself. Prada further channeled the cult classic with Frankenstein prints and enormous tire-tread, studded platform oxford shoes.
Dsquared2 – Nobody Does Grunge Like the Caten Twins
What do those words have in common? Nothing, except for Dan and Dean Caten’s mood board for fall 2019. “Steep as in 2000 meters above sea level, you know, snowboarders…” Dan said, “and Nirvana isn’t really like the grunge of back then, but there’s some element of it, some plaids; we’re Canadian after all. And the opulence…well…she’s kind of trashy and rock-y, together…It’s alpine Seattle glam!” The Caten twins combined their brand of streetwear with winter sports, and grunge “band tees,” which were a riff on the brand’s logo reworked in a Def Leppard font, over cargo pants with suspenders, brightly colored furs, and plenty of flannels.
Nº21 – A New Kind of Male Sexuality
Alessandro Dell’Acqua men’s collection embraced a new kind of male sexuality. With society’s focus on addressing gender stereotypes, identity, and sexism, the designer wanted to offer his own creative perspective, with a collection he deigned “free of fashion classifications,” said Dell’Acqua. His models sported low v-neck and scoop-neck sweaters accessorized with o-ring choker necklaces. Black latex pants and suggestive lace shirts hinted at BDSM. It was all about exposing the male body in a subtle way.
Neil Barrett – Tokyo Punks
Take Tokyo punk, mix it with a splash of the original from London, and what you get is urban neo punk. Neil Barrett celebrated his brand’s 20th anniversary by going back to his English roots, hence the references to punk. His ‘Born in Britain’ collection had a rebellious tinge with PVC trench coats, animal prints, and plaids clashing beautifully over fictional punk band tees. Sleek trench coats featured a collage of neon signs from Tokyo’s Shinjuku and London’s Soho.
Ermenegildo Zegna – One Garment, Endless Possibilities
You wouldn’t know it, but 25 percent of Zegna’s collection was created from nylon, cashmere, and wool offcuts that are intended to be fully recyclable in the future. Detachable cuffs, straps & collars allow the wearer to completely change up the look of each garment. Instead of having to get rid of clothes when they no longer fit your style, Zegna’s sustainable solution is perfect for menswear’s ever-changing styles. It might not seem like a lot, but it’s a step in the right direction.
MSGM – The Need for Speed
Formula One drivers are rarely considered fashion icons, but designer Massimo Giorgetti likes a challenge. This season, the designer felt the need for speed and went all out with an entire racing-themed collection that resembled pit crew uniforms. A burning flame print engulfed shirts, jackets, and trousers, all worn together for a punchy effect, and cargo pants recalled pit crew uniforms. More literal were the graphic print sweaters with horses, (you know, like horsepower, get it?) speedometers, and the phrase “More Speed.”
Fendi – Channeling Karl Lagerfeld’s Style
One of the biggest trends in mens fashion this season is the half-and-half trend. Naturally, Karl Lagerfeld’s offered the most sophisticated take with a shawl collar on one side and a notched lapel on the other. Other bi-furcated pieces included suit jackets, shirts, and a shearling coat that featured a half-and-half split, with one fabric on one side and an opposing fabric on the other. Fendi also introduced a new Baguette bag for men, and a new print logo.
Marcelo Burlon County of Milan – Winter Sports, Skaters and Punks
Snowboarders, skaters and rockers alike can all find something in Marcelo Burlon’s Fall 2019 collection. All the elements and attitude from each style were melded together into one cohesive, ultra-90s look. Beanies, leopard print, and puffers were in abundance, in addition to vibrant splashes of neon are carrying the trend into fall. It doesn’t get more 90s than a half-zip crop top with baggy plaid pants, a dangling chain link belt, and a nylon bomber jacket. #bringbackcroptopsformen2k19
Les Hommes – Raving Mountain Men
If you’re looking for something to wear for a wintery mountain rave, look no further than Les Hommes. Design duo Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch combined the coolest Himalayan hiking elements with a 90s rave influence. The hiking boots and metallic puffers would look right at home in the mountains, as they would in the city. A color blocked anorak with neon adjustors was layered over a white dress shirt and black tailored trousers cropped at the ankle, and completed with chunky white sneakers.