Miuccia Prada presented a horror-driven, Frankenstein monster themed menswear show for Fall/Winter 2019 in Milan. Prada stated she observes a world becoming more “difficult, dangerous, boiling” and is interpreting it through fashion. Her latest collection focused on a military silhouette, offset with a slew of playful, whimsical details to offset the darkness. “I’ve been thinking a lot lately about people’s humanity and sensitivity, of the forgotten, the struggling and of the “weakness and delicacy” of humans at a time of danger and fear,” explained Prada.
The show set, with its padded floors, circuitry board runway lit by exposed lightbulbs had a Victor Frankenstein laboratory feel to it. And it wouldn’t be a Prada show without a few brain-challenging combinations, including triple-cinched belts, moss green cable knits with tufted fur shoulders, periwinkle blue shirts with shiny metallic embellishments, and cardigans purposely worn over blazers. The formal military and librarian looks were worn in combination with what is possibly fall’s most over the top headwear. Russian-style Ushanka hats with colorful, furry ear flaps in zany shades of purple, green, and red.
Her sense of humor shone through in all the bright, fuzzy hats and embroidered patches crudely pinned onto the breast pocket of coats and jackets. The Frankenstein theme was carried through by collaging wool vests with thick nylon sleeves using two disparate fabrications together in one garment to create a whole. Others mixed nylon, lace, and macramé, while some looks were complimented by rubberized leather finishes and big lurid flowers. There were Frankenstein prints and fiendishly large footwear to match. Menswear shirting featured lightning bolts zigzagging to the heart, or felt hearts attached by safety pins. And lace-ups were exaggerated with tractor soles and supersized rubber platforms resembling tire treads.
Despite her tendency to subvert the expected, and rip apart conventionality until it becomes unrecognizable, Prada still arrives at some heart stopping looks. Or as Mary G herself wrote: “Beware; for I am fearless, and therefore powerful.”