At Dior’s Fall 2019 couture show Peter Philips used his newest creation, 3 Couleurs Tri(O)blique – Limited Edition 053 Smoky Canvas inspired by Maria Grazia Chiuri’s signature look. Philips created a customized palette for creative director, Maria Grazia, by stamping her name onto it. Models walked the runway in dramatic, black layers of tulle, velvet, and silk gowns topped by black widow veils courtesy of hat designer Stephen Jones. The makeup was as intensely bold as the gothic, moody vibe of the clothes.
“The makeup is a very traditional, classic haute couture makeup look,” he says. “Beautiful on every woman, every girl — no matter what the skin tone is, a smoky eye always works…On some girls it looks almost gothic and on others it looks romantic,” he adds. “That’s the strength of a smoky eye, it offers different ways of expressing yourself.” Philips’ smoky eye and fresh face combo is super easy to achieve, too. The eyeshadow palette has three smoky colors to create an eye with depth, and comes with two small sponge tip applicators. After finishing the eye, he moved on to the base to clean up any fallout from the shadow, then finished off the look by setting the brows and swiping on a bit of gloss.
No mascara, though! Chiuri didn’t want to transform the models into femme fatales. “If you do a smoky eye, when you apply mascara, it becomes more about seduction and it’s more sexy,” says Philips. “If you use no mascara, it becomes more poetic, because you take the harshness out of it. It’s all about the blending, but it still stays strong because it’s black.” He skipped blush and highlighter, also, so as not to compete with the veil.
Get the Look with Peter Philips’ Ultimate Toolkit
To replicate the look, perfect the skin first with Dior’s Backstage Face & Body Primer, then with your fingers pat on Dior Backstage Face & Body Foundation onto the skin and blend with a sponge. Next, set your foundation, t-zone and under-eye area with Dior Forever & Ever Control Loose Powder. Then start building up the black shadow from Dior’s Couleurs Tri(O)blique 053 Smoky Canvas palette directly into your lash line and blend outward towards the crease. (Pro tip: keep your brush pointed down, not up, for a smoother blend.) Add eyeshadow to the inner and outer corners of the eye, as well as the lower lash line to add more dimension.
Lightly fill in the eyebrows with Diorshow Brow Styler and set with Diorshow Pump ‘N’ Brow. Avoid using too much product in order to keep it looking natural. For the final touch, plump and add shine to the lips with Dior Addict Lip Maximizer.