3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2012
by Jada Brazell
Set in a dimly lit warehouse, smoke billowed above the runway, setting the stage for a neo-noir comic book scene on which Philip Lim’s “modern-day superheroes” would emerge. Given his penchant for minimalistic functionality, latex catsuits and capes were probably not anticipated, but Lim definitely set a contrasting stage by introducing buttoned-up characters wearing pieces seen everyday on the streets of Manhattan, rushing to work in pencil skirts and pumps. Apparently, Lim’s version of the modern-day superhero is the 9-5, no-nonsense professional. While he did open the show with a cape, his focus quickly turned to razor-sharp tailoring and monochromatic graphics. Models sported sleek jackets, creased trousers and boxy cropped or elongated blazers while “This is a Man’s World” played through the speakers, sending a clear message: It is not, and we’re not taking ‘no’ for an answer. These dueling ideas played out in black vs. white, hard vs. soft, serious vs. playful. Lim played optical tricks using mapping and paneling, slicing silhouettes for a slimming effect. Several separates appeared as two-layered garments as the designer encased opaque fabrics in transparent sheathes. Lim featured patchwork overcoats, crombies, mod capes, military blazers, nouveau-puffa jackets, indented flat collars and trompe l’oeil metal collars. Organza, merino wool, PVC and mohair were used in many of the pieces. To soften the utilitarian and monochromatic mood, Lim accented several pieces with pumpkin, aubergine and prune and weaved his signature comfort knits throughout the show. The grand finale exploded into vibrant blues, deep greens and bursts of tangerine, reminding the audience once again that the everyday woman is, in fact, an extraordinary superhero.
