Erdem explores the cinematic side of fashion
For his fall 2015 collection, Erdem Moraligoglu explored the idea of a fictional heroine, using her environment as a starting point to design his collection. The designer was inspired by “The Collector,” a 60s interior by production designer Robin Brown of an imaginary Parisian collector’s apartment seen at London’s Frieze Art fair. The set utilized midcentury furniture, geometric wallpapers, lamps with ceramic bases and vintage magazines and books, from the designers own home to recreate an extravagant, overstuffed apartment.
Erdem placed his charming heroines in the middle of his cinematic set, as if they were forgotten film stars whose clothes matched their home décor. “She’s cut up things from her granny’s wardrobe and stitched them together with upholstery or sofa fabric” stated Erdem. The collection included decadent brocade cocktail dresses in metallic hues, vibrant guipure lace dresses in purple or red hues, and splendid coats rendered in vibrant jacquards turned inside out. Laser-cut leather dresses and Chanel-like tweed suits were deliberately left frayed at the hems illustrating a faded glamour. A couple of coats came in camel and black that faded into metallic, degrade brocades using a needle-punching technique to combined both fabrics. Followed by an ocelot printed coat trimmed with shaggy black shearling.
For his finale, sporty knit sweaters spilled over floor-sweeping fluid silk skirts randomly decked with ostrich plumes as the models filed into the drawing room and settled into the comfy furnishings to create a rich tableau. His rich, complex fabrics have always been his strongest suit, but Moralioglu ultra feminine collection was an impressive exercise in color, fabric manipulation and proportion, setting the standard for his future shows. It was surreally elegant, but with an edgy, decadent feel.
