A Dramatic Metamorphosis at the House of Givenchy
It’s been quite a year for women, and Givenchy’s appointment of Clare Waight Keller, the first-ever female creative director, emphasizes the new leadership role women stand to play in the new world order. The fashion house is off to a powerful start, with Waight Keller introducing her vision for the label as “…a world where women and men alike are strong, stoic and mysterious. They own their power and share it equally.”
Immediately recognizable was the floaty, romantic aesthetic that the designer built her name upon at Chloé, but this time it was combined with a masculine edge in the form of raw denim, tough leather, and graphic tees. It’s the perfect interaction between menswear and womenswear; not biased toward either, as if designed for a couple who coordinates their outfits for every occasion. Men wore transparent chiffon tops under jacquard woven jackets that subtly complemented the women’s billowy dresses and mini’s with pleated chiffon insets. A range of exciting men’s evening wear suits in leopard and “Baby Tigra” prints had a rock n roll vibe and were styled with amulet jewelry. While tiny floral prints reminiscent of the 70s, along with Givenchy’s signature puckered lip kiss print emphasized an ultra-cool attitude.
There was a fresh contemporary feel to the collection compared with past seasons — the cuts were slimmer and modernized, yet elegantly tailored to the body. A series of energetic prints lent a youthful vibe to many of the ensembles. Classic rock n’ roll elements were prominent in the collection, but Waight Keller offered her own slant on the street style trends flooding the runways of late. Bi-colored denim in skirts and trousers were met with buttery leather, creating a refined, yet almost rebellious attitude with a slight air of 70s nostalgia. Pops of red leather contrasted against classic navy, a signature color of the house of Givenchy, while other looks blended sporty stripes with more formal pieces.
Although Waight Keller sent out silhouettes with a more slim, streamlined appearance, a few oversized pieces emerged such as boxy, sleeveless vests and oversized denim. Leather jackets topped flirty chiffon dresses and skinny leather pants served as great inspiration for wearing summer leather. Jumpsuits were also seen on the runway — a huge trend in menswear this season. For the Givenchy man, that means keeping it lean and layering a sleeveless top underneath and accessorizing with a western inspired belt – a key look for the season ahead.
See All the Looks from the Collection
