Alessandro Sartori Begins A New Era At Zegna
For his Spring 2018 show, Ermenegildo Zegna’s artistic director Alessandro Sartori took over the courtyard of the historical Università Statale of Milan, transforming it into a tangerine hued surrealist landscape. “I used to come here as a teenager, so there are a lot of memories attached to this place for me,” he said before the show. Sartori’s focus this season was a lightness, an airy breeze whistled through the leather tops riddled with latticework that are laser cut in a painstaking process. Perforations also dotted the many blouson jackets, like the loose weaves of knitted jackets, including many of the sandals and baseball caps made from woven leather fabric Zegna calls “Pelle Tessuta.”
Designer Alessandro Sartori says his designs for Zegna have “a strong point of view and a real artistic content… it appeals to a collector’s mentality.”
The fabrications were of exceptional quality. “Classicism with modernity” is what Sartori terms it, with a couture level quality of artisanal craftsmanship elevating the clothes. The silhouettes adhered to the new contemporary athleisure dress code: bomber jackets, joggers and zip-up tops combined with airy jackets and chic trousers with fluid cuts. There was a series of washed silk suits in eggshell and blush pink to weather the stifling summer heat. And upon closer inspection, those splashy painted stripes on a jacket were actually pieces of leather designed to lend a hand-painted appearance, and the embroidery on a blazer was actually minuscule perforations forming the outline of foliage. This collection was Zegna at its sartorial best, showcasing the full, staggering technical know-how of the fashion house’s fabrics and Italian heritage.