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Backstage at NYFWM Spring 2019: Day 2

Feng Chen Wang


As an expansion upon her exploration of the human experience, Feng Chen Wang focuses S19 upon the concept of connection. Pairs were crucial this season, representing two halves coming together – tops layered atop one another, two pairs of denim, two paneled trench coats. There was even a collaboration with Converse which consisted of two pairs of the iconic sneaker split and spliced together for a deconstructed, statement making shoe. Pieces were saturated with vibrant colors, illustrating the range of human emotions; love and hate. Who, or what is your other half?

 

Reconstruct


Just two years ago, a group of five female designers came together to form fashion collective, Reconstruct. Based out go Amsterdam, the designers traveled to NYC for fashion week, and had only three weeks to put together their collection from start to finish. The unisex line was built around “Retrograde Orbit”, a fictional planet “Re-4” which was interpreted through ultra-sporty, streetwear silhouettes, crop tops, cinched drawstrings, nylon textiles, and an uninhibited DIY aesthetic. The show consisted largely of bubble vests, parachute-esque pants, reconstructed Converse tracksuits, even a sweater roomy enough for two people to share together. Though the five designers each embody a different point of view, Reconstruct manages to represent “one unified vision”.

 

Parke & Ronen


California Dreaming! Parke Lutter & Ronen Jehezel transported their audience to a beach in Malibu for their spring 2019 Menswear show at New York Men’s fashion Week. “It’s all about L.A., baby,” said Parke Lutter backstage before the show. The duo sent out an array of retro style graphic stripes on swimwear, polos and short-sleeve shirts. A playful range of sheer shirts and pajama sets in hot house florals alluded to a leisurely lifestyle, while sleeveless hoodie’s offered an athletic city vibe.

 

N.Hoolywood


N. Hoolywood designer Daisuke Obana delivered a strong collection inspired by the great American southwest and Native American artist T.C. Cannon that Obana discovered upon a recent trip to Arizona. The inspiration was evident in everything from cropped bomber jackets to knitwear with fringe trim, and oversize pull-on trousers. A new collab this season with sportswear brand Umbro spanned logo T-shirts, long-sleeved soccer jerseys and breezy, long coats worn over shorts and leggings. Obana’s clever mix of deconstruction techniques and voluminous Japanese proportions lend his silhouettes, both an artisanal and active sport vibe.

 

Gustav Von Aschenbach


“The Gustav Von Aschenbach kid is evolving into a young artist who expresses himself through individualistic self confident clothes.” Gustav Von Aschenbach’s third season celebrates Swiss graphic design and typography; The words “theoretiker” “illusion” and “Basel” are printed as logo typography, trompe l’oeil, ombré and stripes, or as a philosophical statement. Street culture remains a recurring theme as well – Models and dancers performed the “Harlem Shake” after walking down the runway. Big zippers, removable badges, and pops of color in elongated silhouettes of cotton, nylon, and technical fabrics further drive it home.

 

Jahnkoy


Jahnkoy designer Maria Kazakova hand picked an army of street-cast models performing a nearly riot-like presentation in the midst of barricades and posters reading “Seperation is no longer cool” and “Deceived no more, amongst other Cyrillic phrases perhaps more appropriate for a protest march than a fashion show. Nonetheless, fashion label Jahnkoy executed a thoughtfully pieced together collection based on a vital social proclamation: the belief that “culture will bring everyone together”, as Kazakova explains, “my work is about the restoration of cultural tradition and artisanship and the global heritage that we’ve lost”. The spring 19 performance was separated into groups or “tribes”, with outfits walking a delicate line between traditional designs and modern streetwear.

 

Linder


Endearingly kitch designs at Linder carry on the story of last season’s collection; a story central to designer Kirk Millar’s own experience of coming out, accepting himself, and reflecting on his Dutch family heritage. Floral patterns from the 1960’s, images from his great-great-grandmother’s scrapbook, and intarsia sweaters each lend a sense of homesickness and familiarity. Embroidered text that imitates love letters with phrases such as “wait for me”, “boyfriend”, “XOXO” decorated sweaters and shirts as an ode to the designer’s own sexuality.

 


Jahnkoy embroidered stripe collar boxy cotton blend t shirt • Blend of America • $675
Parke & Ronen Striped Tank Top • Parke & Ronen • $34.97
Feng Chen Wang Detachable hood jacket • $815
Gustav Von Aschenbach The Linen Chest Pocket Long Sleeve Shirt • Gustav • $108.80
N.Hoolywood Red Check Compile Shirt • $116

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