Behind the Scenes at New York Men’s Fashion Week Spring 2019

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Alessandro Trincone – Redefining Male Fashion


Alessandro Trincone is making gender constructs a thing of the past. “What I want for the future is for fashion to be genderless, where everything is the same for men’s and women’s”, Trincone explains. Trincone dressed his models in skirts, dresses and pants constructed out of the most irresistible multicolored sequins, tulle ruffles, and silver glitter.

 

Carlos Campos – Modern, Architectural & Minimal


“As every season goes by, it’s good to remind yourself of who you really are,” says designer Carlos Campos, whose Latin roots have planted him firmly into the New York Fashion Week Men’s lineup season after season. His Spring collection “Algo de mi” translates to “Something from me,” was a return to the brand’s core DNA: clean tailoring, with graphic and architectural elements.

 

Todd Snyder – Travel & Leisurewear


Todd Snyder has a penchant for the quirky and retro, and tourist culture is no exception. “It’s somewhat ironic, but it’s like what your dad used to wear that was sort of embarrassing, but is now cool,” said Snyder. The collection titled “The American Tourist,” is everything you need for a vacation from slides, Hawaiian shirts, and bucket hats. “I played a lot with a mix of sartorial and campy references.”

 

N.Hoolywood – The American Southwest


Japanese designer Daisuke Obana has a fascination with deconstructing the codes of American sportswear. This season, he headed west and found inspiration in Arizona, specifically the work of artist T.C. Cannon of the Kiowa tribe. “The lines and bold colors in the artist’s paintings were what drew me to them,” he said. Brightly colored Umbro logos, windbreakers and billowing striped, woven kaftans with frayed hems all featured line work that can be tied back to Cannon’s paintings.

 

Landlord – Surfing the Net


Landlord’s streetwear with neon accents was quite literally the highlight of New York Men’s Fashion Week Spring 2019. Surfer boys and skater dudes donned oversized outwear and jumpsuits with dangling neon colored straps and plenty of pockets. The typical 90s silhouettes were infused with an updated urban edge like pockets on pant legs and t-shirts that overlapped slightly in a nod to Windows 95.

 

Parke & Ronen – California Dreaming


What do you get when you combine a skater, a Muscle Beach regular, and a Hollywood partier? Parke & Ronen, of course. The designers channeled 1980s Los Angeles with a retro color palette of dusty pink, yellow, and turquoise. Their Ken doll, Malibu man was manifested in Hawaiian shirts, swimsuits, see-through knit sweaters, and tank hoodies that gave off leisurely West Coast vibes.

 

Feng Chen Wang – Two in One Designs


Splicing and dicing her way through this season, Feng Chen Wang proves that 2 halves really do make a whole. Every garment had an element of duality to it: two collars on trenchcoats, two Levi’s jackets sewed together, an extra sole on Converse sneakers, a third leg added to jeans, etc. “Obviously, this became part of the design process,” she says, “Two in one.” Doubling up on the idea of yin and yang, Wang also featured black and gray or blue and red ombré colorways on several looks.

 

Gustav Von Aschenbach – Indie Artist


Robert Geller has shortened the name of this brand Gustav Von Aschenbach to the much easier to pronounce “GVA.” Geller highlighted the change with a tribute to the Basel School of Design. Geller’s passion for graphic design and typography Logos, was represented by slogans and appliquéd photographs on many of the pieces. “The G.V.A. guy is evolving into a young artist, who expresses himself through individualistic, self-confident clothes,” says Geller.

 

Jahnkoy – Multi-Ethnic Artisanal


The DIY movement is still going strong, and Maria Jahnkoy’s hand-embellished Puma gear secured her a spot on the 2017 LVMH Prize short list. With the help from Swarovski, the designer is able to expand on her goal of preserving traditional craftsmanship this season. “My work is about the restoration of cultural tradition and artisanship and the global heritage that we’ve lost,” she explains.

 

Descendant of Thieves – Day of the Dead


Surf, sand, and sky…at NYFWM? Creative director Matteo Maniatty’s takes us on an excursion to the beaches of Tulum highlighted by a series of colorful Day of the Dead prints. Think Mayan serpents, candy skulls and layered rosaries.

 

Dyne – Introducing Warcore


First there was normcore, and gorpcore, and now we have war-core. A style defined by survivalist gear and “face masks that give off an “apocalyptic feel,” says Woolmark Prize-winning designer Christopher Bevans. The emerging trend is a fitting reflection of the current political climate. “It’s all about survival skills,” says Bevans. The brand is best known for its street-driven performance wear that incorporates technology. This season, the designer embedded “NFC,” or “near field communications,” into cargo pants and jackets.

 

Sundae School – Ddul-Sunbi aka Smokewear


Korean designer Dae Lim imagined a world where scholars were actually stoners. The collection titled Ddul-Sunbi — ddul is a slang term teens in Korea use for weed and sunbi means scholar. According to Dae Lim, smokewear is clothing that’s not confined to weed smokers, but is supportive of recreational weed. A wool and cashmere sweater emblazoned with “Smoking Chills,” has both interior and exterior pockets designed to hold a joint, juul or even a box of cigarettes.

 

Taakk – Hand-Dyed Japanese Textiles


Japanese designer Takuya Morikawa, better known as Taakk, got ultra creative with textiles this season. He bleached and over-dyed fabrics to create stunning, imaginative effects, including transforming Jacquard overalls and trousers to look like regular denim. While tracksuits that looked like leather were actually made out of specially coated knits. Taakk developed all of his own fabrics, and said he is inspired by what he sees day to day. Perhaps the sunset-print nylon pants and t-shirts encompass the view from his studio window.

 

This is Sweden – Handcrafted Designs


The Spring 2019 “This is Sweden” menswear collection features the brand’s signature birch print, and a 1950’s bed linen embellished with hand embroidered lace. This is Sweden’s core staple fabrics are set against technical fabrics from Swiss textile manufacturer Schoeller, and styled with jewelry from designer Göran Kling with wooden accessories by carpenter Moa Brännström Ott.

 

Reconstruct – Deconstructed Streetwear


Reconstruct Collective’s five female designers took us on an intergalactic journey based on fictional Planet Re-4 and the people that live there. Described as a cross between streetwear and couture by one of the five designers, the collection consists of what can best be described as deconstructed sportswear. The gender fluid unisex line featured cropped puffer vests paired with matching skirts, hoodies cut and cinched into an off-the-shoulder style, and drawstrings added to t-shirts that transformed into crop tops.

 

Vfiles – Designer Showcase


The hottest party at New York Fashion Week’s Menswear shows was hosted by Vfiles. Everyone was there to flaunt their street style. Among the coolest of them all was the guy wearing a yellow jersey, purple trucker hat with pompoms and gold fringe, and trendy square glasses.

 

Public School – Upcycled and Recycled


“The idea of doing a fashion show that’s gone in 10 minutes” says Dao-Yi Chow, might just be a thing of the past. “People are consuming in a new way.” Public Schools Spring 2019 presentation was also their first retail store and a soft launch of the space.” Mannequins were lined up throughout the space dressed in the new collection. Although, according to Chow, the collection “needs an asterisk to highlight the ‘new.’ Almost everything is recycled, upcycled or dead stock and is intended to represent our new philosophy, ” says Chow who co-designs the line with Maxwell Osborne. The designers also introduced a brand new PSNY logo. With so many brands doing their own version of streetwear, Public School definitely knows how to stand out.

 

Linder – Granny Chic


There’s something oddly comforting about Linder’s Spring 2019 collection. Perhaps it’s the nostalgia embedded into each piece. “My great, great grandmother had a scrapbook full of poems, magazine clippings of flowers, and drawings from her kids and grandkids,” explained Linder. The heirloom pieces serve as an inspiration for the florals, drawings, and messages seen on sweaters, pants, and t-shirts. “Sometimes I worry about my work being too personal,” “But then I remember that that’s the point of being creative, bringing a part of your experience to the table.”

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