In the most dramatic season yet at Paris Fashion Week Spring 2019, Dior kicked off the week with an ode to dance and a dramatic, ballet-inspired collection surrounded by falling white petals, and dancers clad in bodysuits gracefully moving to the clicking sound of a metronome. Saint Laurent brought the beach to Paris against the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower with models wearing nothing but high-cut swimwear, and a plethora of 70s looks pulled directly from the YSL archive — there were tuxedo, velvet, and band-leader jackets — cigarette pants, tiny shorts and the most glamorous platform shoes ever. Jacquemus who presented his show in the gardens at The Italian Embassy also had an abundance of swimwear and dresses that exuded the Italian Riviera.
While at Maison Margiela, John Galliano continued to explore the theme of sensuality through genderless clothing and non-conformity on both male and female muses. Virgil Abloh’s featured actual athletes on the runway at Off-White including more than a half dozen international track and field sport stars. Casting hexes and spells at The Palais de Tokyo, Rick Owens’ mountain witches carried torches while wearing sculptural geometric gowns. The designer also had a burning pyramid at the center of the runway.
Olivier Rousteing made it abundantly clear that he doesn’t fall for trends, and opted to stick with his sartorial best sellers of mirrored Parisian military jackets. On the opposite end of the spectrum, Each x Other made a case for pairing two of the hottest trends at once this season: bicycle shorts and cowboy boots. Dries Van Noten gave sporty staples the high-fashion treatment, starting with a boiler suit in navy blue worn with the top peeled down, over a tassel-trimmed muscle shirt, and a pair of graphic B & W striped high heels.
Dior – Drama and Romance at Dior
Maria Grazia Chiuri channeled a romantic ballet inspired collection for Dior this season fusing together the elegance of both fashion and ballet. Classic Greek goddess gowns with pleats, tulle, mesh, and macrame, lent a dramatic refined personality to the collection.
Saint Laurent – An Ode to Helmut Newton
Saint Laurent is all about sexy, bad girl glam, with Vaccarello’s signature ultra-short hemlines and sky high platforms taking center stage. Little black dresses were alternated with skimpy party girl swimsuits and bodysuits in a tribute to Helmut Newton.
Louis Vuitton – Space Age Futurism
Nicholas Ghesquiere hit the perfect note between retro and space-age futurism at Louis Vuitton. The show was packed with bright energetic prints, quirky silhouettes, and an air of sleek modernism.
Balmain – How to be Parisian
Oliver Rousteing’s doled out a lesson in Parisian history, much of which riffed on Egyptian influences in his latest collection for Balmain. Rich geometric designs took on abstract sculptural shapes, lending a fresh new perspective this season without sacrificing sex appeal.
Off-White – Stay in the Game
Who can forget the iconic tutu tennis dress Virgil Abloh designed for Serena Williams’ return to the US Open. That very same dress inspired his spring collection at Off-White. Abloh combined concepts to create looks that are equally performance-based as they are aesthetic, clashing voluminous tulle skirts with sleek compression tops and a new Nike sneaker collab – the Waffle Racer.
Thom Browne – Naughty Nautical BDSM
This season might go down as Thom Browne’s most curious collection to date. Models wore Friday the 13th masks, with their arms bound by fraying silk and tulle while teetering on sky-high heels. Inspired by the seaside, the nautical influences were countered by an unsettlingly BDSM undertones.
Karl Lagerfeld takes practical ladylike suiting to the chicest beach you’ve ever seen. Barefoot models donned biking shorts and tweed jackets, punchy prints, and glitzy branded shoes and jewelry; some even doubled up with crossbody bags for a lavish afternoon at the beach.
Givenchy – Tomboy Tendencies
The newly appointed queen of androgyny, Claire Waight Keller explored the blurred lines of gender identities. Inspired by a character who spent most of her life dressing and acting as a male, her models sported boyish haircuts with pleated prairie dresses. While tough military inspired silhouettes are tempered with feminine details.
Miu Miu – Ugly / Pretty Clothes
It’s DIY and recycling made chic at Miu Miu, with plenty of deconstruction, reworked fabrics, sheer layers, and a healthy dose of scintillating sex factor.
Celine – Debuts a Unisex Collection
For his debut collection at Celine, Hedi Slimane introduced the label’s first full menswear collection, technically unisex. The designer stressed that the clothes are able to be worn by women as well. Unlike many designers of late, Slimane steers clear of sneakers and anything remotely athleisure inspired. Instead, the collection was full of what he does best – A sexy 80’s jet-setting glam wardrobe.
Maison Margiela – Make your Own Rules
Fashion provocateur John Galliano channeled rich memories of his own college days spent working with costumes at a theatre and night club hopping on the weekends. The sensuous and erotic “anything goes” collection carried a central theme, “Make your own rules.”
Rick Owens – Mountain Witches
Every time you think Rick Owens has finally reached his nadir, he surprise you by topping his previous body of work. For spring, mountain witches casting hexes and spells wore slashed cloaks and sculptural geometric gowns meshed with layered cutouts and abstract structural arm and headpieces.
Alexander McQueen – Queen of Couture
In an era of streetwear hype Sarah Burton continues to emphasize the craft of tailoring and couture at Alexander McQueen. Her spring collection was full of romantic opulence with acute attention to detail, evoking the dreamy essence of couture.
Each x Other – Abstract Energy
Each X Other came through with all the positive vibes for spring 2019. The young label featured a new revamped logo and a mega-cool collaboration with abstract painter Alina Birkner.
Dries Van Noten – Generation X Workwear
Rooted in vibrant expressionism, Dries van Noten energetic colors, and rich variety of fabrics and silhouettes are what the next generation of fashion is lusting over – Playful, functional workwear with an intellectual side.
Haider Ackermann – Master of Coolness
In his first unisex show, Ackermann explores the relationship betwen male and female, and ways in which the two intertwine. Classic houndstooth, sexy silhouettes, and jarring color tones set the stage for a refreshingly chic exploration of gender.
Isabel Marant – Cool Girl Indie Queen
Travel wanderlust meets party life at Isabel Marant’s Spring 2019 collection. Her series of fun and effortless silhouettes are infused with a bohemian appeal with paisley prints, and lots of embroidered detailing, along with shimmering metallics.
Jacquemus – The Italian Riviera
For spring, Jacquemus was all about the pared-down sexiness of resort wear like the kind you see on the Italian Riviera. The fabrics were sheer, floaty, weightless, and definitely skin barring. The perfect wardrobe for a carefree vacation under the sun followed by a night full of the most glamorous party scenes.
Marques’ Almeida – Eclectism and Experimentation
More is more at Marques Almeida with the most eclectic variety of colors, prints, patterns, and shapes fused in experimental ways, with many deconstructed in denim. Every look kept us on our toes anticipating what would come next.