Raf Simons Fall 2017
If all the “I heart New York white and black tees worn under every look are any indication, Raf Simons has embraced New York with open arms. As Simons takes up the mantel of creative director at Calvin Klein, he has also shifted his two decades old, cult menswear label from Paris to New York. By all measures, the architect trained designer surpassed all expectations with his fall men’s show sending out a playful homage to his beloved new city with a mix of knits and polished evening wear that perfectly illustrates his minimal aesthetic and modernist view of the world. The iconic “I love New York” slogans created by Milton Glaser in the 70s peeked out from under coats, between lapels and open knit sweaters with an oversized cream sweater that read “I love you” and “New York” as a play on the well-known “I love NY.” With his latest collection, Raf Simons heralds the arrival of a new chapter for his brand and for the city of New York.
Lazos Schmidl Fall 2017
The label founded by Josef Lazos and Andreas Schmidl, aims to redefine the boundaries of men’s tailoring by exploring aspects of homoeroticism and gay culture. For fall, the duo was inspired by the red light districts of Frankfurt in Germany and Washington Boulevard in Los Angeles, according to the show notes. “Neon signs, broken hearts and the search for fast and eternal love.” Male models dressed in low-cut chain mail camisoles, sheer blouses and tight vinyl pants emulate boy sluts on display. “Everything is obvious, explicit even.” There’s is nothing left to the imagination.
Palomo Spain Fall 2017
Not since Miguel Adrover has a Spanish designer created such a buzz at New York Fashion Week. In his menswear debut, Alejandro Gomez Palomo injected a much needed dose of excitement by materialising what used to reside in his imagination, and bringing it to life in a lavish and resplendent display of couture quality garments. Each of his models were male, but donned clothes that are traditionally thought of as womenswear. Although increasingly, clothes are clothes and can be worn by anyone. “Objecto Sexual,” which translates to sexual object in Spanish, was received by cheers from the fashion crowd. The show opened with a feminine take on suiting, with ruffles, bell sleeves, and exposed shoulders. The show closed with virginal boys in all white gowns and garters, plus one latex suit that resembled a bridegroom’s condom. The use of garters, ultra-cropped skirts and a healthy dose of transparencies, made it clear Palomo was exposing the raw power of sex. “I’m exploring my most sexual self,” he said. In the end, these are beautiful clothes for everyone to indulge regardless of their identity.
Jahnkoy Fall 2017
Central Saint Martin’s grad Maria Jahnkoy’s Fall 2017 menswear show was one of the most important collections at New York Men’s Fashion Week. Jahnkoy incorporates cultural references from all around the globe. The designer sent out warrior-styled men passing out a newspaper called “Displaced” with the headline “Crafting Revolution” Jahnkoy said “The Displaced,” the name of her collection, was a commentary on the fast-fashion industry’s production methods, which leads to excess clothes being dumped into Africa and the loss of artisan jobs. Jahnkoy, which translates to “New Spirit Village” in the Crimean Tatar language, built a red-tinted set that calls to mind any urban city around the world. There were street musicians, peddlers selling wares from a grocery cart, and activists spreading the message “free press!” while passing out newspapers. And the hustler searching for a deal “I’m looking for that two for five,” he repeatedly told the audience. This motley cast of characters was surrounded by world flags, caution tape and signs promoting cheap consumption.
Landlord Fall 2017
Six years ago Daniel Huang inherited his father’s clothing manufacturing company, Fashion Queen Management. Since the 80s, the company has operated overseas fulfilling military contractsHuang met his creative director Ryohei Kawanishi, and pattern-maker Naoki Masuda at a Parsons MFA showcase. Kawanishi also had a strong affinity for military styles and says “In Japan, where I’m from, American military uniforms are turned into Japanese streetwear.” Landlord debuted their Men’s Spring 2017 collection at New York Men’s Fashion Week titled “Please Excuse Our Appearance.” The collection is an ode to blue-collar workers everywhere, and was also partly inspired by the German contemporary artist Isa Genzken. Genzken’s installation of uniformed mannequins informed Kawanishi’s mix of urban street wear juxtaposed with modern contemporary art influences.
