By Edwardo Flores for Global Fashion News
Gothic culture, Catholicism, and the world of music are often referential points for Riccardo Tisci’s head turning designs for the house of Givenchy, but for spring-summer 2013, he channeled his romantic, feminine side. Curiously, Riccardo Tisci was raised by his mother and eight sisters, and this collection was clearly influenced by the many women in his life.
The rigorous architectural designs were constructed of long layers using fabrics like silk crepe, organza, silk gazar, satin and matelasse, many with fluttering trains that trailed behind the models as they walked past a dramatic church organ installed on a large wooden set. The music echoed haunting, transcendental melodies throughout the room and set the stage for Givenchy’s celestial show. The monastically clean structure of the clothes exudes an ultra pure and light state of mind. “Pure and light…I went back to the roots of the house in the sixties,” stated Riccardo Tisci.
In keeping with Tisci’s religious feminine ideal, this season’s collection was supremely minimal with clean, spare, lines. Tisci kept his color palette minimal and controlled, much like the clothes… all rendered in long, lean silhouettes in black and white or seductive noir, pale blue and nude beige. He opened the show with an elegant pale, blue, silk crepe, single-sleeve dress with a flouncy layered neckline in a clear homage to Hubert de Givenchy. Followed by simple spare looks, as in a pure white, silk gazar tunic with wing-cut sleeves layered over a white halter camisole and slim, black trousers.
He continued with an array of finely tailored jackets over transparent tunics and narrow trousers, layered over knee-length, apron wrap skirts. The looks were accompanied by clear lucite or metal chokers, which vaguely resemble the band of a clerical collar. In many ways the dresses had the same characteristics as Halston in the 70s, classically cut, simple, spare and elegant designs. Whispy blouses and column dresses were fastened at the sides and top of the shoulders by long metal bar clasps and worn with clear plexiglass sandals on high cone-shaped heels. Other offerings for evening, include black satin with dramatic ruffled or gathered necklines and bishop sleeves, and a fluid black gown with a lace overlay worn over trousers.
Riccardo Tisci’s collection for Givenchy was filled with strikingly beautiful clothes, and is one of his most important collections, but what women will love is the chic, elegance of the the garments. Bravo!
