Norm Core Trend Imitates Fashion from the Streets
Norm core, otherwise known as the new nerd look, is designed to be as practical and confident as it’s wearer. It’s a turn away from the over the top, dramatic fashion statements of previous years in favor of a more refined look for today’s over committed lifestyles.
This approachable, less pretentious style popped up all over Paris this spring, blurring the lines between street and runway fashion. Designers co-opted head to toe colored suits which were prevalent in the women’s collections, complete with functional man bags and shades. It’s fashion from the street at its best.
Hedi Slimane, Saint Laurent’s menswear designer, might be David Bowie’s biggest fan. Drawing inspiration from rockabilly glam, Slimane’s norm core look was a bit edgier than most. The skintight vinyl jeans and skinny tie enveloped by a supremely tailored lambskin jacket create a sharp, angular silhouette. Slimane blurred the gender lines with his androgynous chic rocker look for his Spring 2014 menswear collection. Accessorized with pointed-toe winklepicker boots and aviator shades, this new nerd is anything but dorky.
Paul Smith’s runway show was anything but a formal affair. His collection focused on the mutlti-tasking lifestyles of his clientele who prefer to dress with stylish ease, describing his menswear line as “a collision of sportswear and suiting.” Smith sent models down the runway in psychedelic colors and mushroom prints influenced by the 70s. The mushroom motif even appeared on suiting, although in a subtle way. A peach colored suit with a mushroom embossed print featured a one-button jacket over a chambray shirt contrasted by a black and white silk handkerchief tied around the model’s neck. The dandy work-wear suit is accented with patent leather boots and an oversized black satchel bag, a practical luxury for the office.
Kris Van Assche’s spring menswear collection is perfect for the modern prepster. Using bold colors like forest green and crocodile prints Van Assche creates an intriguing interpretation of the norm core trend. The traditional two-button jacket is paired with single pleated ankle cropped trousers. The crocodile print shirt with a white contrasting collar adds a unique breastplate effect. The model is equipped with trainer inspired loafers with rubber soles to complete the sophisticated, yet practical urban commuter look.
Lanvin proposed a different version of the head to toe solid color suit, sending models out in tone on tone suiting combinations. Designer Alber Elbaz focused on texture instead of prints using luxurious, even feminine, fabrics to approximate a slouchy version of the 60s boiler suit. Here billowing baby blue trousers made of viscose silk are contrasted with a shrunken, three-button wool bonded jacket in robin’s egg blue. But the blue and black patent derby shoes with nail head studs on the rubber sole give the ensemble a youthful, glamorous edge. Elbaz introduced a series of new bags for men, including a grey and blue snakeskin patchwork clutch with a blue-green pony skin hand strap.
Kim Jones found his inspiration for Louis Vuitton’s checked suits in Austin, Texas on his trip across America. This 60s preppy look is a must have for ambitious Ivy Leaguers. The two-button jacket with pennants adhered to the collar touches on the American heritage theme of the Louis Vuitton menswear collection. The window plaid jacket and trousers are made from ultra lightweight wool, ideal for the dog days of summer. Jones exchanged the skinny tie for a loosely wrapped bandana that peaks out from underneath the blue and white plaid shirt.
Valentino turned back the clock to a more timeless era basing its menswear collection off of military uniforms. The army inspiration is visible in this aviator style khaki suit. The two-button satin jacket and single pleat trousers have a less stiff, more retro feel than the traditional Valentino fit. The deep brown leather oxfords and a skinny navy tie complement the neutral color palette.
