While viewing the Paris spring 2014 collections I was reminded of how common place sheer fabrics have become on the runway with literal full on views of the body now the norm. And no one does daring boudoir looks better than the Parisians, who are well known for their chic, barely there clothes.
This season Chloe designer, Clare Waight Keller set out to evoke a “high summer feeling, “ with her retro inspired collection that revolved around the summer dress. “I really looked at summer dresses and pictures of the 1970s, and what you wear in the heat,” said the designer. She achieved a lightness and airy sensibility through transparency and featherweight fabrics. A cerulean blue dress with a geometric crocheted layer over a cotton romper is the ideal summer dress for tooling around the city or lolling on the beach.
Elie Saab’s dreamy, white summer cocktail dress features the utmost delicate floral appliqué of camelia flowers and lace frills on sheer white organza.
Giambattista Valli’s architectural silhouettes feature delicate fabric surface treatments that appear modern and restrained. Here a red paisley print chiffon dress, over a dark bodysuit is modern with just the right amount of transparency and embellishment, so as not to distract entirely from the lovely sculpted shape.
Andrew Gn’s embroidered column gown with gold Braque inspired doves flying down one side is transformed at the knee into a sheer, black, flowing mousseline skirt.
At Chanel’s spring 2014 show, Karl Largerfeld sent out numerous art as fashion, eye popping daywear ensembles. One of our favorites was a raspberry tweed, floor length dress reminiscent of Courreges from the 1970s. Lagerfeld’s models all wore wigs with fringed bangs and striking Kabuki style multi-colored eyeshadow to match the collection’s brightly colored rainbow palette.
“I love to talk about handsome women,” said Ackermann, whose modern contemporary cuts, airy fabrics, and sleek silhouettes seamlessly unite the masculine and feminine. Here a slim, midnight black, tuxedo jacket over a white cotton voile shirt is worn over a sheer hint of a skirt that reveals the legs and fluttered with each movement. It’s the kind of look that is sensual and elegant all at once, and would fit in in any city around the world. “There is a duality. These women were lost and they were on their way. It feels like they were walking forever on those highways. And the clothes are tripping and falling and fainting, and I think that’s a beautiful mood” stated Ackermann.
Alexis Mabille’s loose interpretation of Rosie the Riveter dressed as a pin-up gal in cowgirl wear is the height of fun summer dressing. Here a navy, blue vest over a sheer blouse impriwith glistening gold polka dots is tied at the waist and worn over a transparent seaweed green skirt that flares out dramatically. The green, fringed western style booties are a must-have summer accessory.
Dior sent out a masterfully cut, double breasted black tuxedo jacket sans sleeves over an exotic peacock blue pencil skirt with ribbing. The masculine scale of the smoking jacket perfectly complements the unexpected striking hue of the sheer skirt.
At Balmain, Olivier Rousteing’s signature power shoulders enhance a sporty, white blouse in a playful sheer gingham pattern alongside matching white silk trousers.
A. F Vandervorst’s version of sheer was sweet and relaxed, in a T-shirt style ensemble with matching skirt that skims the body in a breezy, sporty way.
At Issey Miyake, Yoshiyuki Miyamae experimented with the contrast between light and shadow to create intensely vibrant color gradations on athletic inspired jackets and coats paired with equally voluminous, long skirts. A bright red and white coat perfectly illustrates the effect of white light filtering through a prism. Overall, there was a very relaxed, resort feel to the brightly colored oversized pieces.
Chalayan styled a crisp, white T-shirt over nude-beige shorts, which he layered under a pair of sheer billowing trousers that split above the knee and flowed wispily around the legs. A wide-brimmed garden hat amplified the summery essence and added a hint of mystery. ‘It was all about optimizing summer life,’ said Hussein Chalayan. Come spring, every girl will be wearing something sheer, it’s summer time!
