Creative directors, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli updated Valentino’s elegant DNA with a dash of forbidden sensuality unleashing a torrent of delicate, barely there prim dresses constructed with layers upon layers of silk organza and lace that gave the appearance of bare naked skin.
The show opened with a nude slip dress with fagoted seams running down the bodice and skirt, subtly revealing glimpses of skin underneath. The silhouette of the dress gently skimmed the body without revealing too much, yet alluded to a sensuality beneath the well-defined exterior. The collection’s fabrics included Venetian lace, silk organza, black silk chiffon, and taffeta embroidered with glass or tiny seeded ivory beads.
Long, lean feminine silhouettes from the 40s and 50s, much like the ones worn by Catherine Deneuve in the film “Belle du Jour” elicited squeals of delight from the audience. There were A-line dresses in eyelet cotton lace, silk taffeta dresses with seeded bib collars, sultry lace shirt dresses with peter-pan collars, chiffon gowns with bullion embroideries and silk crepe jumpsuits in navy, crimson and black. These looks captured the essence of Valentino’s youthful energy and the airiness of a spring garden.
The extravagant use of opulent lace in Valentino’s collection was breathtaking… Guipure lace came in a Venetian tear drop patterns, with cotton eyelet lace landing on shorts, dresses and a skirt suit. For evening, lace was embellished with metallic rose gold thread or jet black beading. Among the highlights, was a white A-line dress with matching cape, and a seductive black jumpsuit with a white embroidered lace bib. Lacy edged camisoles peeked out from underneath whispy frocks in a creamy pale blush or translucent black silk. The combination of all the elements together radiated sensuality in a very discreet way.
The shoes also proved simply irresistible and appeared light as air with plexiglass heels and transparent straps decorated with Swarovski studs, in either nude or black. They were the perfect complement to the weightlessness of the clothes.
