Robert Geller Redefining Menswear
For his Fall/Winter 2015 collection, Robert Geller drew inspiration from two of history’s greatest fencers—Aldo and Nedo Nadi. Italian fencers who dominated the sport at the 1920 Olympic Games in Antwerp. I’ve been a little bit obsessed with fencing for a while ,” said Geller backstage. This led Geller to consider the roots of modern sportswear.
Interpreting the current athletic mood in menswear is one of Geller’s strengths, and that’s exactly where he focused his attention sending out cropped, pleated trousers and long, elegant wool coats, and silky striped robe worn as a coat over a matching lounge shirt and scarf, as well as a gray flannel suit with cropped pants.
The collection centered around a soft rounded-shoulder silhouette and high-waisted trousers, not unlike those from the 1920s, which he showed with suspenders. Yet it was full of athletic references including wool striped sweatpants, tank tops, oversized T-shirts and fitted garment-dyed bombers. Forgoing his usual minimalist style, Geller played with pattern more than he typically does and opted for bold vertical and horizontal stripes, pinstripes and a rorschach ink-blotch pattern that he referred to as the “drifter” print. The color palette, too, seemed to hark back to another era, in muted shades of gray, charcoal, navy, burgundy and brown. Among the chiaroscuro colors, a dark moody raspberry hue was one of the highlights, which he applied to his finished garments to give a slightly worn-in look. To add to the sartorial freshness, Geller worked with Common Projects, the masters of minimalism to create a pair of black derby shoes with a fetishistic strap over the laces to complete each look.
The collection had “a sense of luxurious comfort and sportiness with a twenty-first-century urban city dweller in mind.
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