In a dark cavernous room at the New york Armory with crying strings filling the air, Marc Jacobs unveiled one of his most stunning collections in recent memory. The resplendant, almost couture collection is marked by “a fallen-angel kind of beauty,” says Jacobs. “But still an angel,” he adds. The silhouettes reflect that personality with voluminous trapeze evening coats and A-line silhouettes, gathered babydoll dresses and drop waist frocks with high necklines. Jacobs lays claim to the chicest cold weather wardrobe around in traditional winter fabrications such as cashmere, thick wools, plaid, houndstooth, and striped prints. To cleanse the palette between the heavy doses of drama, body skimming gowns in jewel tones and minimalist shapes provide an alternate version to Marc Jacobs‘ over-the-top glamour.
Jacob’s repertoire for fall is full of great coats and capes, tulle party dresses, and A-line skirts worn with crewneck sweaters. Only this season, everything is pumped up to extremes, with coats that have presence as if filled with air, and dresses made more elaborate by layers and layers of crinolines. As for accessories, they are as show-stopping as the clothes themselves. Tall feathered, Stephen Jones designed hats added even more height to the supremely elegant models, while knit beanies with a hint of grunge added interest to the feathered evening gowns. Other accessories include handbags in small and miniature sizes so as not to detract from the attention-demanding clothes.
Each look in the collection was so unique with that certain fallen angel mystique. Perhaps the most bittersweet moment was the appearance of Christy Turlington Burns, who closed the show in a couture gown made of black feathers and petals.