John Galliano’s Spring 2017 menswear collection for Maison Margiela was a return to the avant-garde ideas that the French house was built on. Galliano tackled a laid back wardrobe defined by soft shoulders, rolled up cuffs and slouchy silhouettes. The reassembled deconstructed tailoring from Margiela’s archives resulted in deconstructed suits, jackets and dress shirts with exposed stitching, ripped seams and mis-matched fabrics. The show’s soundtrack “Last Year’s Man” by Leonard Cohen contributed to the nostalgic atmosphere. There was a feeling of deliberate dishabille with guts-on-the-outside suiting, loosely tailored half-tucked shirts and quartered Chelsea boots. The carefree aesthetic of the clothing was reinforced by oversized pieces with messy details like tops heavily layered into three or four pieces and inside-out sweaters. The collection pinpointed masculine fragility with feminine influences that can be seen in the olive knit cutout romper and black and brown knit skorts. Folded loafers and athletic tear-away jogger pants gave the collection a fresh, youthful vibe. Highlight pieces include, luxurious silk printed shirts and straight-cut, black and olive trousers cuffed just above the ankle. Shirts were pieced together with various contrasting fabrics of chambray, knit and poplin and were buttoned together instead of sewn. Several pieces look unfinished with visible outlines and stitching, rough unfinished edges and sleeves left dangling off the models shoulders. There were a generous amount of coats including trench coats, and a prince of wales softly tailored topcoat with bell shaped sleeves that favored freedom of movement. A flowing and twisted shirts worn by Bernd Sassmannhausen looked as if it was haphazardly tossed on inside-out while rolling out of bed. The details on suit jackets elevated the idea of the deconstructed blazer for the contemporary young man. The collection harkened to Margiela’s tradition of breaking down their garments to display how they’re made by exposing construction seams, linings and tearing suits apart.
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