On a particular rainy afternoon, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim for Kenzo held their spring 2015 mens show along the Seine river on the fanciest bridge in Paris. Upon arrival, we’re given umbrellas by the Kenzo staff, and once in place, we spot a colorful row of rainbow pastel-clothed men marching towards us. A far-cry from the stereotypical “How French of you” chain-smoking existentialism, the modernist colour palette seemed to come from the future.
A bit of “war-paint” on their face evoked the rawness of their personas, in an almost tribalistic way, but also perfectly complimenting the looks. It was clear from the beginning that the Kenzo man is moving towards the future. “We were really into this optimism for the future,” said Leon after the show. “It’s a future that’s very close to us, not a space age future. We wanted to think about what that meant. We’re definitely embracing technology and looking at our vision for the future – cleanliness, purity, the right energy and being responsible.”
All aspects of French culture were explored: French Breton stripes were rached up a bit with a jolt of colour including lilac and peach. Pastel colours and giant polka dot prints were a central theme as the models made their way over the Pont Alexandre III with a stunning view of the Eiffel Tower in the background. Slim-cut three button and two button suits in navy featured deconstructed collars and infusions of cammo-ish patterns that added a more contemporary slant.
The transatlantic clash of both American and French cultures resulted in knitwear with graphic images of Cosette from Les Misérables and the Statue of Liberty. Overcoats were embellished with holographic patches of both Lady Liberty and the Eiffel Tower. Patches were also present in the luxe-workwear such as jumpsuits, and parka jackets, the must have piece of the season. These dramatic coats were the “Piece D’Guerre” of sorts, adroitly sporting not just the aforementioned Breton stripes, but also cheerful navy blue polka dots. Kenzo’s very future is inter-twined with its customers who love wearing fun, playful pieces of luxury.
