At Junya Watanabe, the 80s style spikes were so big and prominent on the models’ shoes and heads they could have doubled as weapons. They looked a bit like middle fingers with razor-sharp talons, ready to pop the swelling bubble of ignorance.
However with Watanabe, the punk iconography looked more futuristic as he spun a myriad of options out of skinny-legging big-top proportions throughout his Fall 2018 women’s collection. Watanabe has been working on making his men’s collection look as generic as possible for a long time, collaborating with an encyclopedic array of brands—North Face, Carhartt, Levi’s, and more—to import the masculine aura of authentic workwear to a fashion context. This collection was his parallel coolness for women. The kind of clothes kids once hoped to find in vintage stores, replicated with added design bonuses. Watanabe experimented with 80s chintz, oversized Scandinavian sweaters, raincoats, floral dresses and grandpa suits. Junya Watanabe’s approach to fashion is—refreshingly—to make it look decidedly un-fashion.