While streetwear continues to dominate much of the fashion coversation as of late, Joseph Abboud returns to the fundamental art of tailoring. “It’s time to reconstruct menswear,” the designer said. “I hate the athleisure thing.” This season Abboud celebrates the heritage of traditional menswear, and the clothes are a far cry from mundane. Keeping the collection modern, yet interesting are perfectly paired suits in matching fabrications with chic layers underneath. The designers uniquely American story is found in the delicate checked jackets, pinstriped suits, and variety of rich fabrics that resonates in the largely monochrome grey and black silhouettes.
Striped cashmere Ivy league v-neck sweaters sit atop collared shirts and ties, mixed with window pane checks, plaids, houndstooth, and jacquard florals. Prints lend a sophisticated quality, while maintaining a timeless attitude. In response to the deep, inky color palette of grays were striking reds and saturated indigo infused in some of the latter evening wear looks. Particularly striking was a red and gold jacquard shawl collar jacket tempered by a double-breasted gray vest and matching trousers. These silhouettes command just enough to command attention without being too contemptuous.
Each of the forty plus looks exuded confidence and drama once found in old Hollywood stars, and now translated for the modern era. There’s a richness about the collection that’s been missing in menswear. As Abboud himself puts it: “There’s a . . . star quality to a guy getting dressed up,” he states, “It’s pretty sexy to get dressed up again”. Luxurious suiting met with the opulence of the historic venue (the Hotel Wolcott, no less) resulted in an elegance only comparable to perhaps that of Tom Ford menswear show, another longstanding king of luxury. Still, Joseph Abboud continues his ascent to the top, to illustrate his own vision of menswear. Abboud’s acute attention to detail and refinement honors decades of Hollywood glamour.