Inspiration for a collection can come from the most unexpected places. For Spring 2014, Olivier Theyskens drew inspiration from a rather innocuous place, his girlfriends penchant for layering.
“It’s all those silly tank tops, but girls put it together. They love layering,” Theyskens said backstage. “I’m really into clothes that have the capacity to be mixed and matched, pieces that work and are sensuous and modern, with a young vibe,” stated the designer. His arrangement of layered separates and extended layers, along with coy veiling of the feminine form with athletic undertones are the primary defining elements of his collection. A New urban cool dressing for the city where simplicity co-exists with sharp, well cut elements.
For spring Theysken’s ventured into territory that is more democratic and more accessible. The clothes are infinitely more useful for dynamic living, many styled with skinny tailored shorts peeking out from under dark layers. Theyskens combined a structured dropped shoulder tee with cuffed sleeves, over a brief reinforced bustier that traced the contours of the body. Hidden underneath the cascade of layers was a pair of relaxed shorts with a cycling version of the same, peering out from beneath the soft folds.
The silhouettes maintained an elegant simplicity through monochromatic shades of white, black, and various nuetrals creating the illusion of infinite continuity through the layering of unexpected proportions and textures. One such ensemble, a black napa leather tee with rounded shoulders and tailored shorts, was hardly obscured by wispy, sheer, trousers that separated above the knee into fluttering diaphanous panels. A trend that you are sure to see more of come next spring.
The Belgian designer’s darkly romantic style was infused with an urban element that felt distinctly New York. Sporty looks like a cropped peach silk crepe tank, with sleek tailored mint green twill shorts, veiled the sinuous curves of a willowy model. A simple black chiffon overdress mimicked the neckline of the tank, and brought together an ensemble that quintessentially celebrates New York’s street style with an effortless sensibility.
Some of the more elegant evening looks had that diaphanous fluttery, fragile quality as well. A maxi-length silk crepe shirtdress with a plunging V-neck, revealed titillating glimpses of skin through insets of chiffon at the front, back, and swirling around the hem. A white tank and a men’s style dinner jacket with defined shoulders diffused the bedroom intimacy of this dark, romantic look.
This was a very strong collection for Olivier Theyskens. The lightness was an exploration of layering, proportion and silhouette, and the ability of those elements to create flattering illusions on the body. Theyskens’ foray into more color with tentative infusions of pink, peach, mint, lemon, and lavender still retained the austere integrity of the designer’s aesthetic.
These are cool clothes for a cool girl – clothes with an easy nonchalance, that are elegant with a new energy and freedom.
