Fendi Fall 2020: The New Normal

 Like
House of Holland Sale

 

Silvia Venturini Fendi set out to create a collection of unusual basics for Fall 2020 that center around classic menswear, but reinterpreted in a fresh new way. A retro-futuristic undertone was visible throughout the collection with a hint of grunge that added yet another layer of character to the exceptionally tailored silhouettes. Unexpected proportions like 50s style trousers featured extra high waists and were sometimes cropped at the calf. Trousers and shorts were melded with a skirt panel in the back that was only visible once the models walked on past.

There were cropped sweater tops which are extremely unusual if not unheard of for men that looked like something girls wore in the 90s. And zip-off coats capable of transforming into three different lengths came in ombre layers of differing fabrications. Black and yellow Fendi packaging tape was overlaid on jacket seams lending the pieces an industrial feel. While boots came with thick platform soles, giving the wearer a sense of power. There were classic tailored blazers in navy and pinstripe, but appearing to be inside out and equipped with wallet pockets on the outside so that you can keep “all the important things on you.”

Despite a prevalence of tailoring, the collection felt very workwear inspired. Starting with the entire color palette of yellow and black which instantly brought to mind construction equipment, with the addition of taupe and grey, there was a refined utilitarian aesthetic. The thick Timberland style boots came with heavy stylized treads and occasionally wader tops. Insulated puffer jackets and thick cable knits looked like practical gear for outdoor jobs. Square suede chore jackets were topped with snug fisherman beanies and bucket hats took a luxurious tone fabricated in fur, adding to the subliminal 90’s grunge tone.

The thick boots, skirt pants, and crop tops certainly added some drama to the collection, but the real stars had to be the handbags. Every Fendi favorite got a new makeover. Peekaboo bags got cable knit sweater and shearling covers, and leather versions had hard box bottoms attached reminiscent of a toolbox. There were baguettes with handles made unexpectedly from soft shearling chains. A huge yellow leather shopper was designed after… their shopping bags, of course. Another riff on the packaging produced leather duster bags that look just like the little protective fabric pouches designer accessories come in. It’s taken men a long time to adopt the handbag, but now men are enjoying bags as much as women.

 

See All the Looks from the Collection

Share this post:

Feng Chen Wang Spring 2020: Futuristic Unisex Sportswear

Thom Browne Spring 2020: Candyland Queens

Paul Smith Spring 2020: An Explosion of Paintbox Colors

Y/Project Spring 2020: Transcending Gender Fluidity

Gucci Spring 2020: Gucci is a Party

Nº21 Spring 2020: Sensual Provocation