The craftsmanship of the Berluti has long been held in high esteem, but with the arrival of Kris Van Assche’s a youthful seduction has begun with a shift towards customization and accommodating the creative whims of every client. Berluti’s website states, “you are the artist, and we provide the craft to bring your vision to life.” Van Assche is acutely aware that young, successful creatives are the most coveted luxury clientelle, partly for the influence they wield on the tastes of the mainstream. Berluti has proudly boasted clients like Andy Warhol, who commissioned a pair of leather loafers which inspired the brand’s Andy loafer. Leaning into that history is the way forward for Berluti, not as a stuffy old world brand, but as a source of the world’s finest most skilled artisans who are ready to bring modern creative visions to life.
In fact, each look in the collection contained at least one handcrafted piece including painstakingly inlaid intarsia fur coats in 60s mod inspired patterns. A new paint splatter technique added flecks of color to shirts, calf hair coats, and even the sharp toed shoes. Thin strips of leather were woven into large scale Prince of Wales checks on scarves and jackets, and the brand’s instagram account features video clips highlighting Berluti’s leather work and hand tailoring to pique the interest of the younger generation and illustrate what they do best.
The fall collection pays homage to the rich traditions of the house with their signature classic tailoring approached from a modern perspective. An ecclectic array of textures were merged with traditional suiting weaves in herringbone, windowpane, and Glenplaids. The vibrant spectrum of colors and fabrics represents the new Berluti man: he is eclectic with a respect for heritage, has a love for the finer things, and displays a creative personal flair. With this collection Van Assche is introducing a new image for the brand without alienating the older clientele base or the house’s heritage as he courts a new generation. The new Berluti look demonstrates how to integrate new trends into a classic wardrobe. Timeless pieces must be able to stand up to shifting aesthetics, and Berluti makes the case that well made clothes never out of style.
Despite whispers that streetwear is dead, the sneaker has earned its place as a wardrobe essential that’s fashionable enough for work attire. This season, Berluti staked their flag as a bastion not only of dress shoes, but footwear for every occasion. Their opening look proudly presented their newest multi-colored Gravity sneaker paired with a beautiful cornflower blue suit with sharp shoulders and a modern, loose fit. The punchy new sneakers definitely make a statement, and illustrate their versatility styled with traditional suiting, luxurious sweaters, and heritage leather details.