This season, Demna Gvasalia continued to redefine the techniques he’s been working on at Balenciaga, modernizing versions of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s cocoon, babydoll and semi-fitted silhouettes considered wardrobe staples by ‘True Parisians.’ The designer reinforced his claim on oversize shapes, proposing blanket-like cocoon puffers, sumptuous kimonos and beefy belted shearlings, in addition to camel topcoats with enormous shoulders. One model in an all-red head-to-toe ensemble topped by a red, floor-length hooded coat and small, angular sunglasses had a notable Matrix-meets-The-Handmaid’s-Tale vibe. “The house has such a long story, but my job is basically to modernize it and to make it appealing to the customer that we have today,” he said backstage. “It’s my modern vision of Parisian style.”
The Triple S sneakers were nowhere to seen for fall, but jokingly were carried in bags down the runway in Balenciaga shopper bags. A touch that Demna says is his “ode to the customer, to people who actually go shopping for fashion.” Instead the models sported ladylike pointed pumps and square-toed ankle boots overlaid with double B’s on the toe. The branding did not stop there, it also peeked out from slides in the form of black nail polish on models’ toes.Trendy neon brights were also prominent and came in every shade imaginable to liven up the minimalist silhouettes in a dynamic range of different shapes and colors. A broad range of outerwear including trench coats with exaggerated collars, quilted duvet coats and Gvsalia’s signature take on the puffa jacket were the ——
Despite the ultra-highbrow sophistication of the clothes, the collection still had an ample amount of the streetwear offerings that Gvasalia does so well, t-shirts, hoodies and bomber jackets to wear under the many well tailored hourglass shaped coats and jackets. And just as the sneaker has evolved, Balenciaga’s signature streetwear has too, giving way to fresh, new dynamic silhouettes with couture proportions. You either get it or you don’t.