The Top 5 Trends from Milan Spring 2017
Technical outerwear was a major trend at Milan fashion week this season with almost every major label showing a parka or anorak cut from light, waterproof technical fabrics in a bold array of colors and patterns. Miuccia Prada set the standard with her energetic parade of new wave trekkers in parkas, windbreakers and zippered rain pants in thermographic prints and graphic stripes. The multicolored floor length raincoats looked fit for a camping trip in extreme conditions. Versace showed ultra luxe hooded anoraks and billowing parkas in monochromatic silhouettes in shades of green and purple paired with thick hiking sandals. Gucci featured a traditional waterproof raincoat in bright yellow with a matching hood. At Moncler Gamme Bleu, Thom Browne added a utilitarian aspect to the clothing utilizing waterproof and thermo-bonded fabrics suited for the great outdoors. Fendi’s navy waterproof raincoat is a perfect foil for toughing out schizophrenic spring weather in style.
Many of the top designers in Milan focused on a nostalgic retro sportswear trend for spring 2017. MSGM designer Massimo Giorgetti’s ‘90s rave theme featured a number of upbeat pieces including half-zipped fitted knits in both thick and thin horizontal and vertical stripes. Neil Barrett paid homage to American TV shows from the ‘70s such as Starsky & Hutch. Barrett’s leather jackets had contrasting stripes inset with chevron patterns that fan out over the sleeves. Silvia Venturini Fendi featured stripes in varying widths on terrycloth t-shirts, accessories and airy lawn striped shirts. Ports 1961 creative director Milan Vukmirovic referenced ‘90s sports trends with a capsule collection developed in collaboration with Everlast that featured shorts, oversized T-shirts, hoodies and capes printed with the brand’s logo. Iceberg’s new creative director James Long designed knits and t-shirts decorated with red, white and blue stripes reminiscent of sailors’ uniforms.
Cream of the Crop
New styles emerged in Milan centered on relaxed, casual fit trousers cut several inches above the ankle. At Gucci, Alessandro Michele embraced the notion of travel with pressed dress trousers cut way above the ankle to show off Gucci’s classic loafer; a comfortable yet polished look perfect for jet-setting to your next destination. Giorgio Armani also nodded to modern journeymen with his collection titled “Crossing Borders” that featured sun-faded, soft, grey trousers paired with deconstructed jackets in featherweight linens for a sportswear feel. At Les Hommes, creative directors Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch channeled a more formal military inspiration with bomber jackets worn over cropped trousers decorated with zippers and an abundance of functional pockets. Damir Doma embraced distressed fabrics in his cropped, voluminous trousers with frayed edges worn with oversized tops. The theme of the Ports 1961 show was ‘Less Hate, More Love’, and an undercurrent of romantic inspirations is seen in the softly ruffled tops worn over cropped beige trousers with a tuxedo stripe.
In Milan, almost every major designer inserted an all green ensemble into their collection. Fendi’s spring 2017 show was transformed into the pool party of the season with models walking a green AstroTurf runway and an Olympic size swimming pool. A green satin belted trench-coat paired with olive wide-leg trousers was a highlight look of the collection. A nuanced green color palette at Emporio Armani featured neutrals layered with green like a slick olive bomber jacket over loose fitting trousers in a monochromatic look. Kean Etro’s spring 2017 show featured a close circle of friends, artists, architects and poets walking alongside professional models. Patterned knits in mottled green stripes were paired with green cuffed trousers and the essential flip-flop. At Jil Sander, creative director Rodolfo Paglialunga featured workwear staples including elongated trench-coats and collared shirts in delicate shades of green.
Athleisure has gone mainstream as an everyday workwear staple, and was a major trend on the Milan runways this season. The design team at Salvatore Ferragamo created sartorial looks with a fresh take on sportswear with workwear-inspired proportions. ‘80s style athletic jogger pants were transformed and scrunched up all the way to the knee and paired with a bright yellow rain jacket and hiking sandals. Donatella embraced minimalism in her sportswear leaning collection of hooded anoraks over technical leggings. Wide cut shorts and cycling gear are part of a new line of Versace’s Active performance wear that easily mixes with sweaters, tailored jackets and blousons for a more polished athletic look. At Gucci, basketball shorts embroidered with the word “love” are paired with tall, white, retro athletic tube socks, laced tights and a sleeveless knit vest for an effortless athleisure look.
Blue is the new neutral for spring in Milan. See the color trend here.