In a collection that referenced a recent exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum “Women in Black: Fashioning Mourning,” Thom Browne’s latest collection resembled aristocratic society at the turn of the century paying their final respects at a funeral. Traditional mourning wear was indeed the focus, but the designer illuminated so much more than that with his couture level of craftsmanship and the splendor of intricate hand wrought details. The combination of the Victorian silhouettes, the models in hats with veils, and the extraordinary details of the clothes was nothing short of a breathtaking spectacle.
The show presented in a unique theater format with hints of Steven Soderbergh’s medical TV drama “The Knick” had the audience observing the bereaved from spectator seats. Coat dresses came past the knee with one or two button overcoats intended to be worn as primary layers. Browne’s beautifully tailored suits and dresses were elevated to a new heights of luxury in fabrics that included guipure lace, 3-ply mohair, wool crepe, silk gazar and organza that he develops in house with his design team. The magnificent black dresses and coats followed an hour glass silhouette with trim shoulders, adorned with embroidery and mink intarsia. He opened the show with a double breasted coat in guipure lace over a cashmere mink trimmed wrap skirt in wool with a cashmere jacket followed by a one button jacket with frayed edges rendered in 3-ply mohair over low rise wide legged trousers. The procession of models illustrated in a very deliberate way, the impact of high-fashion on the dictates of bereavement wear as seen on a model in a zip front tunic with black pearl embroidery and mini skirt disguised in black denim. Browne stated he wanted to create “fabulous clothes” using one of fashion’s toughest colours, black.”
The superb hats and veils were created by milliner Stephen Jones. Each had its own veil, different from the other. The veils are a declaration of the dignity and respect we all must pay towards the decease. The textures were imminently rich, and scaled back in an elegant, complex manner and although the palette was black, it was poetic, making us wonder if Browne’s sensibility would have served him better in the theater, had he not gone into fashion. A whale seen in subtle patterns and in the form of a structured bag was a whimsical, playful detail added to lighten the mood according to the designer.
As over the top as this collection was, the workmanship and attention to detail speak to the designers high standards and how committed Thom Browne is to making quality pieces that will stand the test of time.
