At Saint Laurent’s Fall 2015 show, there was plenty of punk bad-girl vibes to go around. The hair was very slick and short evoking the “power females” from Robert Palmer’s back up group of seductive models whose pale skin, heavy makeup, and slick hair caused a sensation in the 80s. Others were the modern reincarnation of the Sex Pistol’s Nancy Spungen, blond hair frizzed and messy with bangs so sharp you could cut yourself.
Designer Hedi Slimane’s love of music is well known and with his latest offering he mixed in all the preconceived notions of punk-rock and rearranged them in a novel new ways. The models sported individual makeup created by Aaron de Mey with ultra-heavy eyeliner and bright red lips that made each look iconic in it’s own right. Many of them shocking, others very polished, but there was no question attitude was everything as they stormed down the runway in tight mini-dresses worn with ripped stockings and stiletto heels. The dresses came in an assortment of colours from black to leopard print, to a soft pink dress with tulle reminiscent of grunge icon Courtney Love.
The silhouettes remained very much the same throughout the show, everything super short and fitted, paired with leather jackets, adding an extra layer of cool. Every detail including the torn stockings down to the makeup reeked of rebellion and “I don’t give a f*ck” attitude. There were sheer blouses paired with high waisted pants and masculine jackets, adding to the androgynous punk air. A lampshade mini with crinoline skirt was paired with leather leggings and a fantastic multi-coloured fur with puffs of every colour. These were followed by prom style dresses adorned with bows rendered in twill, wool, and lurex, all accessorized by geometric bags with tough chain or stud embellishments.
While much has been made of the message and the mood at the show. His focus remains squarely on the clothes. It is clear Slimane aims to reassert our notion and idea of luxury. The chic effortlessness whispers luxury without trying to be anything more. More importantly, Slimane has opened up Saint Laurent to a younger audience and a much wider clientele. The rebel attitude is what gave each garment altitude.
