Kerby Jean-Raymond’s seasonal experiment with volume and shape this Fall Winter 2015 season alluded to the vibrant colours of dandyism.
Drawing inspiration from the movies School Daze and Cruel Intentions the designer took any pre-conceived notion of the label (from the previous seasons,) and veared sharply to the opposite extreme of what the brand is known for. The brand’s classic bomber and motorcycle jackets are still there and were featured prominently, however many came beautifully rendered in new hues of grey and blue camouflage layered over brightly colored hoodies and asymmetrically cut T-Shirts. The dynamic new silhouette is a testament to Jean-Raymond’s keen tailoring skills and playful experiment with volume and shape. This experimentation yielded a refreshing new barrage of styles. Road ready shearlings also made a vainglorious appearance, most significantly in a substantial, funnel neck collared canary yellow jacket with the lining reversed inside out. Many of the fabrics used throughout the collection included shearling, wool blends, fleece, viscose, and specially treated leathers, making his latest collection highly versatile with something for everyone.
Perhaps the “Piece d’ rigour” this time around were the kicks. Allow me to elaborate, because they were GREAT. I mean custom kicks created for Pyer Moss in collaboration with shoe company GREATS. The shoes emphasized a similar colour palette and, in Pyer Moss’ wordsmith fashion, featured the words “FOUL” and PLAY” on the back of each shoe, in addition to a perforated “94” branding on the tongue of the shoe. You can expect the Pyer Moss GREATS “Pronto Runner” to become a coveted item come Fall.
