Mary Katrantzou’s earth shattering collection was inspired by the geological formations of Gaia and mother earth herself. Two hundred million years ago a massive continent called Pangaea broke up and pulled apart to create new continents. The idea inspired a unique visual narrative, expressed through a combination of naturalistic organic forms and abstract shapes held together by tulle that appear to break apart on the body.
The clothes are at once evocative of glittering formations and the pulling and shifting of continents; alluding to the birth of the planet, and its unique flora and fauna. The shifting tectonic plates are represented by vibrant vein-like embroidery on silk, lace bonded glitter fabrics and other extraordinary couture fabrics. Lace was woven to represent foliage and intertwined serpents that were additionally printed on tulle and embroidered to look like a serpent’s skin. A series of evening dresses, and trousers with dainty tulle tops feature dramatic fissures of vein embroidery and paneling, some came adorned with horsehair embroidery. Panelling also lent itself to superb baby doll dresses, with pleats that appeared to float away from the body.
Throughout the show organic and rich geometric patterns were layered and manipulated and constantly juxtaposed. The tailoring was soft and fluid in light weight summer wools, printed featherweight silks and delicate tulle with seeded bead panels. Complex seaweed and anemone embroidery was embedded into a series of shift party dresses. These motifs also reappeared on custom jacquards, coral embroidery and fil coupé organza. Fantastical creatures, and mythological hybrids from earth and sea, were translated into lace appliqué motifs encrusted with intricate metal, enamel and embedded crystal embroidery on elaborate party dresses and evening wear.
Katranzou combines a multitude of layered textiles into an intricate puzzle, creating a virtual pangea of surface texture that highlights her extraordinary repetoire of eyepopping surface textures. The egnimatic textures and deft execution was a brilliant match for the sophistication of the concept.
