Kate and Laura Mulleavy latest collection for Rodarte combines both medieval and science fiction elements reminiscent of HBO’s new series “Game of Thrones.” When asked about their inspiration Kate answered “It’s about medieval things and role-playing games,” but she made it clear they do not follow the popular HBO television show.
The show opened with a medieval warrior princess sporting a turquoise and black long sleeved turtleneck, worn under a strapless structured black dress with a neckline that pointed up to the collar bone made from quilted panels of jacquard mixed with guipure lace that mimicked articulated armor. Upon closer inspection the turquoise and black print turned out to be a close up image of the brain. The effect was pure sci-fi fantasy with couture details elevating the dresses above ready-to-wear. This was followed by a series of futuristic inter-galactatic stylized ice skating dresses which were shown over bright printed turtlenecks and accessorized with chunky thick soled high heeled sandals. with a nod in there to Nicholas Guesquiere’s work at Balenciaga.
There were flowing gowns with bejewelled waist embellishments dripping with romantic melting rose necklaces and and chain mail medallions worthy of goth Dragon princess. A deep blue silk gown with a softly pleated neckline and cuffed short sleeves, featured a high slit and a gold lattice-patterned corset made out of gold metal sequins. Following the role-playing looks was a pair of provocative front laced and studded leather pants paired with a sleeveless blouse inset with a silky aqua triangle and burnt-orange collar wing tips. Followed by a tough biker, oversized leather jacket with extra long black and green fringe over a macrame sweater constructed from knit squares connected together by metal rings and worn with a patchworked three dimensional leather mini skirt lending a Mad Max feel to the collection. That veered into Mad Max territory.
Rodarte’s superb workmanship was evident in everything from the flowy silk gowns to the long fringed leather jackets and sculpted dresses with battle like armature. The collection stayed true to the Mulleavy sisters unique experimental ethos and illustrated a whole new direction for the design duo.
