Deliberate Dishabille Reflects A New World Disorder at Lanvin’s Menswear Show
At Lanvin’s Spring 2017 Men’s show models navigated cement pillars distilling a dark mood that was grittier and more provocative than usual. It felt as if they were walking through a futuristic dystopian society. “It’s a strange time in fashion, and in the world in general,” said Lucas Ossendrijver. “ I decided to be creative. There’s not much else I can do.” Acknowledging the new reality of fear, and a world in turmoil, the clothes themselves had a sense of urgency.
The collection felt like a reaction to what’s going on in the world, and was not about a single idea or concept, but rather a world of different possibilities. Some of these ideas were evident in the deliberately and carefully wrinkled jackets which were left open to flow freely over layers of striped or distressed shirts. Like fugitives on the run, the deliberate imperfection of baggy jackets and too-short pants proportions signaled a wardrobe for a world gone wrong. “I wanted the boys to look a bit careless and free,” said Ossendrijver. “It’s about freedom, and the freedom to make mistakes.” There were lines of poetry circling waists: “It doesn’t matter right or wrong,” and belts and necklaces pierced with metallic arrows, with arrows also knitted onto intarsia sweaters.
There also was a sense of utility in anoraks that reached mid calf with flowing straps and accompanying backpacks. High-waisted trousers were held up with belts featuring large metal rings used to clip necessities onto, with either silver hands or arrow buckles. Delicate arrows embroidered on the sleeves of shirts pointed forward towards to the future, while the word “error” was stamped on the heel of every shoe like an incantation to accept the current reality and move on. Lanvin’s signature sneaker appeared in deep charcoal gray and other neutral colors highlighted by bright purple, blue, and green socks printed with a leafy pattern resembling bamboo and cannabis. For as much as it all looked undone, it was brilliantly put together and infused with an element of cool masculine youth which is a signature of Ossendrijver’s work. His approach is always to ensure that his menswear feels like it belongs to the wearer.