Jean Paul Gaultier took a nostalgic look back at the glory years of fashion even staging his show at the Salle Wagram, where some of his most infamous and memorable collections of the 1980s and 1990s took place. His pointy conical bustiers, marinière stripes and trench coats were all back, but reinterpreted in a whole new way that veered into punk rock territory with elements of contemporary urban street culture.
The show opened with two models wearing modern day incarnations of the conical bra corset made famous by Madonna in the 1980s. A nude fitted conical bra jacket featured detachable sleeves and was detailed with studs along the seams. The jackets were paired with either skin-tight black leather pants or a black, floor-length plissé skirt with models sporting punk-scruffy hair and knee-length stiletto boots. Wool gabardine trenches were layered over floor-length chiffon dresses, fitted conical bustiers were transformed into long sleeved peplumed blouses and bomber jackets were paired with skin tight pencil skirts.
Gaultier introduced a big bold signature print of block letters with models silhouetted against the background shown in three different color ways. A red and yellow version was featured on a silk, dolman sleeved caftan with asymmetrical hem styled with black tights, knee-length boots and black leather gloves. A green and purple version was seen on a pleated, silk chiffon floor-length skirt paired with a cropped fringed jacket with black fur trim at the collar and the cuffs. A neutral brown and beige version was rendered into a patchwork, sheared fur coat with fox fur collar that wrapped round the body and was worn with brown stiletto ankle boots.
Jean Paul Gaultier latest collection steps away from his usual over the top theatrical looks to focus on consumer friendly wearable clothes. The collection felt refined and luxurious in a Parisian way, while still maintaining the unique Gaultier aesthetic.
