Jason Wu’s Utilitarian Edge
For Spring 2014 Jason Wu downplayed his power silhouettes in favor of a sharp utilitarian edge with a casual, relaxed glamour. Wu went back to the light-hearted, feminine, prettiness that initially helped propel him to fame. His latest collection felt lighter and featured clean, simple lines. “It really was all about exploring ease and femininity,” said Wu.
The show opened with the late 1990s it-girl, Karen Elson, wearing a semi-sheer, gold bias cut halter dress subtly adorned with fading sequins at the hem. This was followed by a series of sparkling bias-cut slip dresses paired with biker jackets or deconstructed safari blazers and the new “goes with everything,” ribbed sweatshirt. Wu’s utilitarian sportswear mixed with more glamorous pieces had a laid back, glamourous feel. His playful combinations of utilitarian pieces mixed with dressed up elements complimented each other perfectly, as in a sheer white organza blouse with strategically placed patch front pockets paired with white tailored shorts, and flat strappy sandals.
A great example of this new found ease was a monochromatic nude, rose beige ensemble composed of a strapless silk top knotted at the center to create a sweetheart neckline with softly draped folds paired with slim tailored trousers that tapered at the ankle and worn with flat nude sandals.
Wu demonstrated that he can leave the shoulder pads behind. Instead he focused on his deft draping skills, which were evident in a number of evening dresses that fit like a dream. Out came a cerulean blue halter dress, sequined from head-to-toe displaying a tiger-esk pattern with a low, seductive cowled back and exposed black bandeau over boy shorts. Next came a beige, deep-V, bias-cut dress with a side slit down to there – in a sequined ombre degrade with an undercurrent of seductiveness. As if that weren’t enough, for the grand finale, he sent out a high-glam, figure-hugging black paneled gown with sheer lace cut panels at the hip and a trailing chiffon fishtail. The dresses were carefree and simply cut without trying too hard to be sexy – which made it all the more seductive.
