Givenchy Fall 2008: Riccardo Tisci’s Breakout Collection

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Roland Mouret

Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci got it all right, at just the right moment to take advantage of the pendulum in fashion is turning in his direction. His dark, romantic religiously themed  collection for fall will have a long waiting list for his strictly tailored black pantsuits and cropped toreador jackets. Tisci showed an incredible array of jackets with a huge number of covetable pieces and a variety of frothy, ruffled blouses.  These came in crisp white cotton, delicate fragile, frilled plissé , and see through chiffons. The whole collection was a Catholic girls dream, not to mention the shoes, like a pair of slick black patent wedge boots with tab-and-Velcro fastenings and retro gold wrap sandals with a wedge heel.

“I’ve been traveling in South America, and I discovered a romantic sensuality and elegance there I really identified with as a Catholic,” said Tisci . The Spanish influence is present in the black lace and flamenco, matador abstract ruffles seen on the jackets, blouses and dresses that came later in the show.  However Tisci’s sense of modernity never ends up sacrificed on the altar of fashion. When Tisci does ruffles and folkloric wool lace, it’s often in circular, architectural fashion on jackets, blouses and coats.  Among the standout pieces in the collection are a gold leather lame` dress and lean black trousers. In the end, this collection vaulted Tisci into the stratoshpere and world class league of his own.

 


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