Andreas Melbostad’s Tribute to Denim – The Modern Contemporary Uniform
Andreas Melbostad fell under the spell of Irving Penn’s book “ Small Trades” whille designing Diesel Black Gold’s Spring 2017 collection. The working class tome seen through the eyes of Irving Penn in “Small Trades” portrays men and women labourers tailors, chefs, and construction workers wearing their everyday uniforms. “The dignity, the proud postures, the fiery spirit that he was able to capture: I was so inspired by it. I wanted to bring back that original, modest, yet noble vibe and elevate it in a contemporary modern way, “ said Melbostadt.
Steering clear of retro, vintage, or costumey interpretations; Melbostadt’s abstract interpretation resulted in precisely cut, denim that was less layered and more edited with finely tuned proportions. His first look on the runway was a streamlined, raw, black denim ensemble with skinny trousers cut extra long and crushed at the ankles with a cropped kimono wrap jacket. The padded kimono style jacket was inspired by the kitchen uniform of chefs and waiters. In addition to the precisley cut slim silhouettes, there were also wide leg trousers, but he kept the emphasis on the waist by adding wide swaths of form fitting rib knitting to nylon tops. Melbostadt’s sleek denim looks were followed by a series of strong architecturally cut, monochromatic short ensembles in shades of khaki and nude pink. A pair of voluminous wide legged trousers was shown with a utilitarian, four front pocket shirt trimmed with military style epaulettes. Workman style smocks and jackets in either blue or red ticking infiltrated Diesel Black Gold in the form of fitted cropped jackets and anoraks. There were a few appearances of athletic, sport elements in a sweatshirt and coordinating nylon shorts, along with mottled, paint splattered jeans, low-waisted cargo Bermuda shorts and multi-pocket shirts. The combination looked fresh and veered into a more modern territory.
