Brioni Paris One Fall 2016: Nail in the Coffin

Justin O’Shea debuts Brioni Paris One Collection in Paris with New Metallica Campaign

Former MyTheresa fashion director Justin O’Shea unveiled his premiere capsule collection for Brioni in Paris following the release of the brands ad campaign featuring Metallica in Brioni’s razor sharp suiting. O’Shea opened the show with a chinchilla coat to set the tone of an overall “gangsta” vibe. The tough guy theme prevailed amid pinstriped suits, and slacks worn with a wife-beater under a full length crocodile leather trench There were wool and mohair suits in pinstripes, tweaked to Mr. O’Shea’s specifications from the existing template, with stronger shoulders, smaller waists and slightly longer lengths, as well as plenty of pieces that veered toward a very specific seventies template of Black sploitation films. These include a full-length chinchilla coat, velvet cut blazers and champagne-colored silk shirts. All of the looks were accessorized by the prerequiste oversized square sunglasses favored by hustlers.

O’Shea unabashedly admits he is catering to a specific clientele. “It’s very gangster to wear a silk shirt,” Mr. O’Shea said. “That’s the kind of guy I want to appeal to.” A practicing gangster? “Totally,” stated Mr. O’Shea “They’ve got so much money. I don’t think anyone actually says they want to approach gangsters, but I’m very open about it.” Mr. O’Shea’s Paris One show was an imaginative play on Bram Stoker’s “Dracula” featuring an over-the-top Dracula archetype and a heroic, less flashy Van Helsing: “Something that still looks like you’re working on Wall Street, you’re just far cooler than everyone else you’re sitting next to,” he said. There will also be a selection of women’s wear made available which is sure to be in high demand.

Update:

After a brief six months as the creative director, Justin O’Shea has departed Brioni as announced by the Italian menswear brand on October 4, 2016. O’Shea was hired at the end of March, a move which initially raised eyebrows as the former MyTheresa global fashion director and street style star had no design experience.