As hip-hop grooves blared on the sound system, statuesque models with Japanese top knots and uber-long ponytails stormed down the catwalk for what turned out to be one of most drop dead glamorous shows of New York Fashion Week. “The collection inspired by “Fifty Shades of Gray,” did not disappoint. Michael Costello’s ability to enhance a woman’s natural curves has gained him international star status from prominent clients, including Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, Jennifer Lopez, and Christina Aguilera among others.
“I wanted to portray a sexy female warrior with strong shoulders” said Costello before the show. Costello stayed true to the theme with a colour palette filled with silvery shades of grays and black mixed with metallic fabrics and unique textures. Sultry, red carpet ready cocktail dresses came in stark, minimalist form-fitting silhouettes, from a short neoprene dress with a high slit, or long and lean in black wool with pointy shoulders. A simply cut black lace dress with sheer panels revealed glimpses of the body underneath. Sharply cut jackets emblazoned with abstract color patterns. A multicolored faux fur chubbie jacket over a black cropped midriff top with peaked French shoulders held sway over an extreme form-fitting pencil skirt.
Gravity defying flared skirts on party dresses made an appearance in a contemporary mix of poly-blend viscose with a hint of stretch (all the garments are VERY fitted). The gray abstract print was also used to great effect on a men’s notched lapel tuxedo jacket with matching bow-tie paired over black viscose trousers. Throughout the show Costello’s designs exuded energy and a stark contemporary minimalism. And just when you thought it couldn’t get anymore interesting, superstar menswear model Shawn Ross waltzed by sporting Costello’s enhanced version of a New York winter coat with a shawl collar and deconstructed sleeves.
For the finale, a gray sequined dress with a “key lock” cutout and open sides offered a tease of the midriff and decolletage, but the back (or rather lack of) is where the “WOW” factor came in. The dress almost completely backless, is a testament to Costello’s enormous skill which he uses to create perfect anatomically fitting dresses which “hug” the models rather than “hang” on their lithe frames. The collection was accessorized with luxury handbags from House of Borel, in exotic skins, including anaconda, crocodile and ostrich, with accents of rose gold and palladium Incorporating an urban influence each look was paired custom knee high, stiletto boots by Stella Hues.
It is clear from his latest collection that Costello’s provocative new turn towards minimalism is sure to gain him hordes of new fans.
