The late 40s and 50s emerged as the most prominent silhouettes at the Fall 2013 Milan and Paris shows. Prada’s retro influenced collection had a 40s sensibility about it and featured a woman in gorgeous disarray with her hair and clothing disheveled wearing half done up cardigans that sat beneath falling off the shoulder dresses. Miuccia Prada’s gray two piece skirt suit with a snug, cropped jacket and cinched waist over a skirt with a hemline askew seemed to suggest a carnal afternoon tryst.
At Ellie Saab, a sleek, body conscious teal cocktail dress with beautifully sculpted shoulders and three-quarter sleeves caught the fancy of many editors. Aquilano.Rimondi’s divine 1950s inspired ensemble rendered in rich couture fabrics features an elaborately embroidered sweater in a grid of black studs and sequins tucked into a glazed circle skirt with a houndstooth pattern. Louis Vuitton double breasted plaid coat with portrait collar and marabou feathered cuffs has an insouciant louche 1940s glamour about it.
Bottega Veneta’s monochromatic cropped turtleneck over a pleated full skirt is a sublime example of how to wear the 1950s look. A play on the iconic 1950s New Look inspired modern day versions with new proportions at Dior, Rochas and Lanvin. Raf Simons severe black dress with a plunging neckline and three quarter sleeves followed in the foot steps of Dior’s renowned New Look. Alber Elbaz sent out a nude long sleeve stocking dress over which he layered a black bustier dress with a full skirt decorated by a jeweled beetle broach and a white rosette. Rochas sent out a checked wool suit belted at the waist to accentuate an hourglass figure over a beautifully, exaggerated full skirt.
